Curry

Curry

Indian curries
Place of origin	Indian subcontinent
Region or state	Worldwide
Main ingredients	Meat or vegetables, oil or ghee, spices
Media: Curry

Curry is a dish with a sauce or gravy seasoned with spices, mainly associated with South Asian cuisine. It is not to be confused with leaves from the curry tree, although some curries do include curry leaves. Curry is prepared in the native cuisines of many Southeast Asian and East Asian countries.

There are many varieties of curry. The choice of spices for each dish in traditional cuisine depends on regional cultural traditions and personal preferences. Such dishes have names that refer to their ingredients, spicing, and cooking methods. Outside the Indian subcontinent, a curry is a dish from Southeast Asia which uses coconut milk or spice pastes and is commonly eaten over rice. Curries may contain fish, meat, poultry, or shellfish, either alone or in combination with vegetables. Others are vegetarian. A masala mixture is a combination of dried or dry-roasted spices commonly homemade for some curries.

Dry curries are cooked using small amounts of liquid, which is allowed to evaporate, leaving the other ingredients coated with the spice mixture. Wet curries contain significant amounts of sauce or gravy based on broth, coconut cream or coconut milk, dairy cream or yogurt, or legume purée, sautéed crushed onion, or tomato purée. Curry powder, a commercially prepared mixture of spices marketed in the West, was first exported to Britain in the 18th century when Indian merchants sold a concoction of spices, similar to garam masala, to the British East India Company returning to Britain.

Etymology

Hannah Glasse's recipe for curry, first published in her 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. It is the first known anglicised form of kaṟi. (The recipe uses the long s, "ſ").

Curry is an anglicised form of the Tamil kaṟi (கறி) meaning 'sauce' or 'relish for rice' that uses the leaves of the curry tree (Murraya koenigii). The word kari is also used in other Dravidian languages, namely in Malayalam, Kannada and Kodava with the meaning of "vegetables (or meat) of any kind (raw or boiled), curry". Kaṟi is described in a mid-17th century Portuguese cookbook by members of the British East India Company, who were trading with Tamil merchants along the Coromandel Coast of southeast India, becoming known as a "spice blend ... called kari podi or curry powder". The first appearance in its anglicised form (spelled currey) was in Hannah Glasse's 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy.

The word cury in the 1390s English cookbook, The Forme of Cury, is unrelated, coming from the Middle French word cuire, meaning 'to cook'.

History

Evidence has been found that Austronesian merchants in South East Asia traded spices along marine trade routes between South Asia (primarily the ports on the south eastern coast of India and Sri Lanka) and East Asia as far back at 5000 BCE. Archaeological evidence dating to 2600 BCE from Mohenjo-daro also suggests the use of mortar and pestle to pound spices including mustard, fennel, cumin, and tamarind pods with which they flavoured food. Black pepper is native to the Indian subcontinent and Southeast Asia and has been known to Indian cooking since at least 2000 BCE.

The three basic ingredients of the spicy stew were ginger, garlic, and turmeric. Using a method called "starch grain analysis", archaeologists identified the residue of these spices in both skeletons and pottery shards from excavations in India, finding that turmeric and ginger were present.

The establishment of the Mughal Empire, in the early 16th century, also influenced some curries, especially in the north. Another influence was the establishment of the Portuguese trading centre in Goa in 1510, resulting in the introduction of chili pepper, tomatoes and potatoes to India from the Americas, as a byproduct of the Columbian Exchange.

The British lumped all sauce-based dishes under the generic name 'curry'. It was introduced to English cuisine from Anglo-Indian cooking in the 17th century, as spicy sauces were added to plain boiled and cooked meats. Curry was first served in coffee houses in Britain from 1809, and has been increasingly popular in Great Britain, with major jumps in the 1940s and the 1970s. During the 19th century, curry was carried to the Caribbean by Indian indentured workers in the British sugar industry. Since the mid-20th century, curries of many national styles have become popular far from their origins, and increasingly become part of international fusion cuisine.

By region

South Asia

Main article: South Asian cuisine

Rajma-chawal, curried red kidney beans with steamed rice, from India

Traditional karahi (left) and handi (right) used to serve Pakistani cuisine

India is the home of curry, and many Indian dishes are curry-based, prepared by adding different types of vegetables, lentils, or meats. The content of the curry and style of preparation vary by region. Most curries are water-based, with occasional use of dairy and coconut milk. Curry dishes are usually thick and spicy and are eaten along with steamed rice and a variety of Indian breads. The popular rogan josh, for example, from Kashmiri cuisine, is a wet curry of lamb with a red gravy coloured by Kashmiri chillies and an extract of the red flowers of the cockscomb plant (mawal). Goshtaba (large lamb meatballs cooked in yoghurt gravy) is another curry dish from the Wazwan tradition occasionally found in Western restaurants.

In Bengali cuisine, Curries are known as Torkari. They can include seafood, vegetables, and meat. Mustard seeds and mustard oil are added to many recipes, many times in the form of Tadka. Popular curries in Bengal include Murgi’r Lal Jhol, Shorshe Illish, Kosha Mangsho, Chingri Malai, and Rezala. Mezban, a popular social festival held in the Chittagong region by Bengali Muslims of Bangladesh. The festival includes a distinctive beef curry, called "Mezbani Gosht", meaning "Mezbani beef". Cooking this curry is simultaneously a large-scale and an intricate process, calling for huge "deghs" and fire-woods and years of experience and perfect skills.

Rice and curry is the staple dish of Sri Lanka.

East Asia

Curry spread to other regions of Asia. Although not an integral part of Chinese cuisine, curry powder is added to some dishes in the southern part of China. The curry powder sold in Chinese grocery stores is similar to Madras curry powder but with addition of star anise and cinnamon. The former Portuguese colony of Macau has its own culinary traditions and curry dishes, including Galinha à portuguesa and curry crab. Portuguese sauce is a sauce flavoured with curry and thickened with coconut milk.

Japanese style Karē-Raisu (curry rice)

Japanese curry is usually eaten as karē raisu – curry, rice, and often pickled vegetables, served on the same plate and eaten with a spoon, a common lunchtime canteen dish. It is less spicy and seasoned than Indian and Southeast Asian curries, being more of a thick stew than a curry. British people brought curry from the Indian colony back to Britain and introduced it to Japan during the Meiji period (1868 to 1912), after Japan ended its policy of national self-isolation (sakoku), and curry in Japan was categorised as a Western dish. Its spread across the country is attributed to its use in the Japanese Army and Navy which adopted it extensively as convenient field and naval canteen cooking, allowing even conscripts from the remotest countryside to experience the dish. The Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force traditionally have curry every Friday for lunch and many ships have their own recipes. The standard Japanese curry contains onions, carrots, potatoes, and sometimes celery, and a meat that is cooked in a large pot. Sometimes grated apples or honey are added for additional sweetness and other vegetables are sometimes used instead.

Curry was popularized in Korean cuisine when Ottogi entered the Korean food industry with a curry powder in 1969. Korean curry, usually served with rice, is characterized by the golden yellow colour of turmeric. Curry tteokbokki is made of tteok (rice cakes), eomuk (fish cakes), eggs, vegetables, and curry. Curry can be added to Korean dishes such as bokkeumbap (fried rice), sundubujjigae (silken tofu stew), fried chicken, vegetable stir-fries, and salads.

Southeast Asia

Mutton Gulai (Indonesian curry), usually served as part of the Nasi padang menu

Indian Indonesian cuisine consists of adaptations of authentic dishes from India, as well as original creations inspired by the diverse food culture of Indonesia. Curry in Indonesian is kari and in Javanese is kare. In Indonesian cuisine especially in Bandung, there is a dish called lontong kari, a combined of lontong and beef yellow curry soup. In Javanese cuisine, kare rajungan, blue swimmer crab curry has become a delicacy of Tuban Regency, East Java. Rendang, the national dish of Indonesia, which is originated from Minang, is drier and contains mostly meat and more coconut milk than a conventional Malaysian curry; it was mentioned in Malay literature in the 1550s by Hikayat Amir Hamzah.

Malaysian cuisine may have initially incorporated curries via the Indian population, but it has become a staple among the Malay and Chinese populations there. Malaysian curries typically use turmeric-rich curry powders, coconut milk, shallots, ginger, belacan (shrimp paste), chili peppers, and garlic. Tamarind is also often used.

A traditional meal featuring several Burmese curries

In Burmese cuisine, curries are broadly called hin. Burmese curries generally consist of protein that is simmered in a curry base of aromatics including shallots, onions, ginger, and garlic, alongside dried spices like turmeric, paprika, and garam masala. Burmese curries generally differ from other Southeast Asian curries in that dried spices are also used commonly to season the dishes, while coconut milk is only used sparingly for select dishes.

Filipino chicken curry, a variant of the native ginataang manok with curry powder

In the Philippines, two kinds of curry traditions are seen corresponding with the cultural divide between the Hispanicised north and Indianised/Islamised south. In the northern areas, a linear range of new curry recipes could be seen. The most common is a variant of the native ginataang manok (chicken cooked in coconut milk) dish with the addition of curry powder, known as the "Filipino chicken curry". This is the usual curry dish that northern Filipinos are familiar with. Similarly, other northern Filipino dishes that can be considered "curries" are usually ginataan (cooked with coconut milk) variants of other native meat or seafood dishes such as adobo, kaldereta, and mechado, that simply add curry powder or non-native Indian spices.

Thai Phanaeng with pork

In Thai cuisine, curries are called kaeng, and usually consist of meat, fish or vegetables in a sauce based on a paste made from chilies, onions or shallots, garlic, and shrimp paste. Additional spices and herbs define the type of curry. Local ingredients, such as chili peppers, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal are used and, in central and southern Thai cuisine, coconut milk. Northern and northeastern Thai curries generally do not contain coconut milk. Due to the use of sugar and coconut milk, Thai curries tend to be sweeter than Indian curries. In the West, some of the Thai curries are described by colour; red curries use red chilies while green curries use green chilies. Yellow curry—called kaeng kari (by various spellings) in Thai, of which a literal translation could be "curry soup"—is more similar to Indian curries, with the use of turmeric, cumin, and other dried spices. A few stir-fried Thai dishes also use an Indian style curry powder (Thai: phong kari).

Cà ri with chicken

In Vietnamese cuisine, it is known as cà ri and is made of ingredients such as coconut milk, potatoes, sweet potatoes, taro, and chicken, along with coriander and green onions. This dish is more like soup than Indian curry. Goat meat curry is also available, but only in a few special restaurants in Vietnam. Curry is often served with bread, vermicelli or rice. Curry is considered a dish in the south. The other ingredients of the curry are very diverse, depending on the meat ingredients, the main fruit for cooking curry as well as the chef's creativity. Vietnamese curries are also made with coconut milk, red cashew, onions, ginger, potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots, radishes, vegetables, and various types of meat.

Africa

An example of Bunny chow served in Durban, South Africa

Consumption of curry spread to South Africa with the migration of people from the Indian subcontinent to the region in the colonial era. African curries, Cape Malay curries and Natal curries include the traditional Natal curry, the Durban curry, Bunny chow, and roti rolls. South African curries appear to have been founded in both KwaZulu-Natal and the Western Cape, while other curries developed across the country over the late 20th century and early 21st century to include ekasi, coloured, and Afrikaner curries. Durban has the largest population of Indians outside of India in the world. Bunny chow or a "set", a South African standard, consists of either lamb, chicken or bean curry poured into a tunnelled-out loaf of bread to be eaten with one's fingers by dipping pieces of the bread into it.

Europe

Chicken tikka masala

Curry is very popular in the United Kingdom, with a curry house in nearly every town. Such is the popularity of curry in the United Kingdom, that it has frequently been called its "adopted national dish". It was estimated that in 2016 there were 12,000 curry houses, employing 100,000 people and with annual combined sales of approximately £4.2 billion.

The food offered is Indian food cooked to British taste, but with increasing demand for authentic Indian styles. As of 2015, curry houses accounted for a fifth of the restaurant business in the UK, but, being historically a low wage sector, they were plagued by a shortage of labour. Established Indian immigrants from South Asia were moving on to other occupations; there were difficulties in training Europeans to cook curry; and immigration restrictions, which require payment of a high wage to skilled immigrants, had crimped the supply of new cooks.

Curry powder

Main article: Curry powder

"Curry powder", as available in certain western markets, is a commercial spice blend, and first sold by Indian merchants to European colonial traders. This resulted in the export of a derived version of Indian concoction of spices. and commercially available from the late 18th century, with brands such as Crosse & Blackwell and Sharwood's persisting to the present. British traders introduced the powder to Meiji Japan, in the mid-19th century, where it became known as Japanese curry.

See also

• Pakistani cuisine
• Curry Awards
• The British Curry Awards
• The Curry Club
• Kadhi

Gallery

• 
  A balti lamb curry
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  Butter chicken served in an Indian restaurant
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  Buttermilk curry from Kerala
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  Curry chicken from Pakistan
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  Homemade chicken tikka masala
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  Indian fish curry
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  Karnataka food
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  Khiao wan curry
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  Korean curry rice
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  Mango curry from Kerala
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  Nihari with nihari salad
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  Pork vindaloo in a Goan restaurant
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  Red roast duck curry (hot and spicy) from Thailand
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  Rice and Chenopodium album leaf curry with onions and potatoes; a vegetarian curry
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  Rogan josh curry
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  Yellow curry
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  Yoghurt and gram flour curry
• 
  Anda (egg) curry

See also

• Curry powder
• Japanese curry

Further reading

• Chapman, Pat. Curry Club Indian Restaurant Cookbook. London – Piatkus.ISBN 0-86188-378-0 & ISBN 0-86188-488-4 (1984 to 2009)
• Chapman, Pat. The Little Curry Book. London – Piatkus.ISBN 978-0861883646 (1985)
• Achaya, K.T. A Historical Dictionary of Indian Food. Delhi, Oxford University Press (1998)
• Grove, Peter & Colleen. The Flavours of History. London, Godiva Books (2011)
• Chapman, Pat. India: Food & Cooking. London, New Holland – ISBN 978-1-84537-619-2 (2007)
• Indian Food: A Historical Companion. Delhi, Oxford University Press, 1994
• David Burton. The Raj at Table. London, Faber and Faber (1993)
• Pat Chapman's Curry Bible. Hodder & St – ISBN 0-340-68037-7 & ISBN 0-340-68037-7 & ISBN 0-340-68562-X & ISBN 0-340-68562-X (1997)
• New Curry Bible, An unaltered edition of Pat Chapman's Curry Bible published by John Blake Publishers. ISBN 978-1-84358-159-8 (2005)
• E.M. Collingham. Curry: A Biography. London, Chatto & Windus, 2005
• An Invitation to Indian Cooking. London, Penguin, 1975
• Jaffrey, Madhur. Various books on curry from 1973 to 2015.
• Chapman, Pat. Petit Plats Curry. Paris. Hachette Marabout. ISBN 2-501-03308-6 (2000)