Kashmiri cuisine: Difference between revisions
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Kashmiri cuisine is generally meat-heavy. The region has, per capita, the highest mutton consumers in the subcontinent. In a majority of Kashmiri cooking, bread is not part of the meal. Bread is generally only eaten with tea in the morning or evening. A typical Kashmiri meal consists of a generous serving of rice (about 250 g), mutton (100 g) and vegetables (about 100 g, mostly greens) cooked in oil, and [[Yogurt|yoghurt]] (50 to 250 g). | Kashmiri cuisine is generally meat-heavy. The region has, per capita, the highest mutton consumers in the subcontinent. In a majority of Kashmiri cooking, bread is not part of the meal. Bread is generally only eaten with tea in the morning or evening. A typical Kashmiri meal consists of a generous serving of rice (about 250 g), mutton (100 g) and vegetables (about 100 g, mostly greens) cooked in oil, and [[Yogurt|yoghurt]] (50 to 250 g). | ||
The cooking methods of vegetables, mutton, homemade cheese ([[paneer]]), and legumes by Muslims are similar to those of Pandits, | The cooking methods of vegetables, mutton, homemade cheese ([[paneer]]), and legumes by Muslims are similar to those of Pandits, except in the use of onions, garlic and shallots by Muslims in place of [[asafoetida]]. Lamb or sheep is the choice of meat for Pandits, whereas Muslims prefer goats. [[Celosia|Cockscomb flower]], called "mawal" in Kashmiri, is boiled to prepare a red food colouring, as used in certain dishes. Kashmiri Pandit cuisine uses the mildly pungent [[Kashmiri red chili]] powder as a spice, as well as ''[[Alkanna tinctoria|ratanjot]]'' to impart colour to certain dishes like [[rogan josh]]. Kashmiri Muslim cuisine uses chilies in moderate quantity and avoid hot dishes at large meals. In Kashmiri Muslim cuisine, vegetable curries are common with meat traditionally considered an expensive indulgence. Meat along with rice, some vegetables and salad are prepared on special occasions like [[Eid al-Fitr]]. | ||
== Global Popularity and Urban Expansion == | == Global Popularity and Urban Expansion == | ||
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=== Neolithic culture === | === Neolithic culture === | ||
Even before the Megalithic culture that followed the Neolithic period, there is evidence of wheat, barley and lentil cultivation. | Even before the Megalithic culture that followed the Neolithic period, there is evidence of wheat, barley and lentil cultivation. Clear evidence for agriculture in the form of large domestic storages of grain and rachises of wheat and barley, as well as millets, were found after 2500 BC in Qasim Bagh in Kashmir. The Kashmir Valley contains multiple sites of the so-called Northern Neolithic, possibly dating as early as 3000 BC when climate became warmer. Excavations from Pethpuran Teng suggest a wider network of contact of this early population, and a significantly deeper time transition of broom-corn millets across the Inner Asian mountains. The date range returned from the lentil samples at Pethpuran Tang represent one of the earliest dated pulse crops from the region (c. 2700 BC). While the valley is altitudinally comparable to other inter-montane agro-pastoralist sites in Central Asia, Kashmir's slightly lower latitude presented the valley as a geographic threshold where crops could be grown without the necessary introgression of traits allowing their cultivation in higher and more northerly regions. | ||
The range of tools recovered at the [[Neolithic]] site of [[Burzahom]], in the district of [[Srinagar]] shows the men were skilled hunters with knowledge of implements for cultivation. Stone hearths have been found at ground levels, near the mouth of pits. | The range of tools recovered at the [[Neolithic]] site of [[Burzahom]], in the district of [[Srinagar]] shows the men were skilled hunters with knowledge of implements for cultivation. Stone hearths have been found at ground levels, near the mouth of pits. The Period II ([[Late Neolithic|Ceramic Neolithic]]) structures show a dish with a hollow stand and a globular pot. Rectangular harvesters with a curved cutting edge have also been recovered. The art-producing behaviour of Neolithic men is witnessed in a hunting scene, with human, a dog and a sun path diagram. Mortar and pestle characterised by a rectangular cross-section are made of the same volcanic rock as used by the current Kashmiris. The presence of lentil explains that the people of Burzahom had wide contacts with Central Asia. Harvesters (both in stone and bone) with two holes for handling it indicate contacts with China. | ||
At the Gufkral Neolithic site 41 km southwest of Srinagar, archaeologists have confirmed settlers were engaged in wild game as well as domestication of animals. The animals that were known at the time were wild sheep, wild goat, wild cattle, red deer, wolf, Himalayan Ibex and bear. | At the Gufkral Neolithic site 41 km southwest of Srinagar, archaeologists have confirmed settlers were engaged in wild game as well as domestication of animals. The animals that were known at the time were wild sheep, wild goat, wild cattle, red deer, wolf, Himalayan Ibex and bear. Roasting of food (both flesh and grain) was done only outside as no hearths or fireplaces were found inside the dwelling pits. Piercers were used for making incisions and for tearing open the flesh after the animal was killed and skinned, scrapers were used to scrape fat from the flesh. In the Phase IB of Neolithic occupation, some new additions included cattle and common peas. Pig (''sus scrofa'') and fish made their appearance in the late Neolithic period. Bones of hare (''lepus''), hedgehog, rodents and beaver were also recovered. | ||
On the basis of the presence of the Emmer wheat (''Triticumdicoccum'') crop at Kanispur, seven kilometres east of Baramulla, contacts of Harappans with the Neolithic Kashmir has been suggested. With the Aryan migration to Kashmir around the 8th century BC, the fire worship cult got embedded into the innate religio-cultural texture of Kashmir through practices such as a phallic emblem of cooked rice. The local ceremony of ''vayuk'' is again near to the Iranian style of ''Farvadin''. On a special day of the month, Kashmiri Muslims remember their dead, visit their graves and distribute loaves of rice. | On the basis of the presence of the Emmer wheat (''Triticumdicoccum'') crop at Kanispur, seven kilometres east of Baramulla, contacts of Harappans with the Neolithic Kashmir has been suggested. With the Aryan migration to Kashmir around the 8th century BC, the fire worship cult got embedded into the innate religio-cultural texture of Kashmir through practices such as a phallic emblem of cooked rice. The local ceremony of ''vayuk'' is again near to the Iranian style of ''Farvadin''. On a special day of the month, Kashmiri Muslims remember their dead, visit their graves and distribute loaves of rice. | ||
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Kashmiri apples were carried by coolies on their backs over 12 days to Rawalpindi in British India. | Kashmiri apples were carried by coolies on their backs over 12 days to Rawalpindi in British India. | ||
The famine of 1878–79 was deadly. | The famine of 1878–79 was deadly. Also, catching and eating of fish by men driven by hunger was made unlawful by an edict during the reign of Maharaja Ranbir Singh. Often anyone who killed a cow was boiled in oil and the hung from a hook which was fixed on to a pole in a public place. People did not possess any right to waste land and the only right which the villager had was that he could plant trees on such lands, and was the owner of the trees and not of land. Milk and butter was often taken away from ''gujjars'' (nomadic herdsmen) without payment by the officials''.'' [[File:Canal-kashmir 0.jpg|thumb|<nowiki>''</nowiki>Six Artistic views of Kashmir<nowiki>''</nowiki> by unidentified British painter. Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin built canals to promote agriculture.]] | ||
===Foods mentioned in ancient Kashmiri texts=== | ===Foods mentioned in ancient Kashmiri texts=== | ||
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* ''Holy Basil''. | * ''Holy Basil''. | ||
* ''Salt'', a precious article and according to Ksemendra, consumed by the rich alone. Two varieties were found in the bazaars of Kashmir: rock salt from the Punjab, and powder salt, called ''bota nun'' from Ladakh. | * ''Salt'', a precious article and according to Ksemendra, consumed by the rich alone. Two varieties were found in the bazaars of Kashmir: rock salt from the Punjab, and powder salt, called ''bota nun'' from Ladakh. | ||
* [[File:Pure Kashmiri saffron pack 05.jpg|thumb|Kong (saffron from Kashmir), GI tag.]]''Saffron'', historians suggest Persian saffron corms were transplanted to Kashmiri soil after Persia conquered Kashmir. The first harvest occurred sometime prior to 500 BC. Hiuen Tsang, a Chinese traveller in his ''Travels in India'' (631 AD) says that saffron flowers were long used to adorn the neck of oxen at the autumn festival in the country of Kashmir. Reference has been made of Kashmiri saffron in the [[Ratnavali]] of Harsha. Buddhist tradition claims Mādhyandina, a disciple or companion of the Buddha's disciple Ānanda, introduced the saffron crocus in Kashmir. Kashmiri poet [[Bilhana]] in his Vikramanka Charitam says that the cultivation of saffron flowers in Kashmir originated from Takshaka Naga, a holy spring. A popular myth talks about how when a naga chieftain (a water god) fell sick with an eye complaint, he was cured by the ''vaidya'' of Padmapur (Pampore). In gratitude, the naga gave him a bulb of saffron and thus the locals began the cultivation. | * [[File:Pure Kashmiri saffron pack 05.jpg|thumb|Kong (saffron from Kashmir), GI tag.]]''Saffron'', historians suggest Persian saffron corms were transplanted to Kashmiri soil after Persia conquered Kashmir. The first harvest occurred sometime prior to 500 BC. Hiuen Tsang, a Chinese traveller in his ''Travels in India'' (631 AD) says that saffron flowers were long used to adorn the neck of oxen at the autumn festival in the country of Kashmir. Reference has been made of Kashmiri saffron in the [[Ratnavali]] of Harsha. Buddhist tradition claims Mādhyandina, a disciple or companion of the Buddha's disciple Ānanda, introduced the saffron crocus in Kashmir. Kashmiri poet [[Bilhana]] in his Vikramanka Charitam says that the cultivation of saffron flowers in Kashmir originated from Takshaka Naga, a holy spring. A popular myth talks about how when a naga chieftain (a water god) fell sick with an eye complaint, he was cured by the ''vaidya'' of Padmapur (Pampore). In gratitude, the naga gave him a bulb of saffron and thus the locals began the cultivation. Ksemendra mentioned that traders used to earn a lot through trade in saffron, in his 11th century satire ''Samayamatrka''. In the [[Kaula (Hinduism)|Kaula]] tradition, a ceremony was performed with saffron for warriors. The Persian historian Firishta (1612) mentions that the saffron of Kashmir was particularly good. At the time of Jehangir (1605–27), the annual crop was 18.5 tonnes, more than anywhere in the world. | ||
* ''Clarified Butter'', lamps were prepared with ''ghee''. It was sold by itinerant sellers who went from door to door.[[File:Doodhpathri - Mustard fields on the way southwest Jammu Kashmir India.jpg|thumb|Mustard fields at Doodhpathri. Mustard oil has been a very important part of Kashmiri cooking since it replaced walnut oil.]] | * ''Clarified Butter'', lamps were prepared with ''ghee''. It was sold by itinerant sellers who went from door to door.[[File:Doodhpathri - Mustard fields on the way southwest Jammu Kashmir India.jpg|thumb|Mustard fields at Doodhpathri. Mustard oil has been a very important part of Kashmiri cooking since it replaced walnut oil.]] | ||
* ''Oil''. | * ''Oil''. Wooden oil presses constructed more than 200 years ago have been operating in Kashmir. Till the mid-1940s there were sixteen oil mills operating in Srinagar. Large quantities of dried apricots called ''Bote Chire'' were imported to Kashmir from Ladakh in the bygone days, and oil was pressed from their kernels at Kashmiri oil presses. The rapeseed oil was considered best for eating while walnut and almond oil were also used. In the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, the cultivation of mustard plants grew considerably in Kashmir, and the use of walnut oil fell considerably. | ||
* ''Gold Dust''. | * ''Gold Dust''. | ||
* ''Curd''. | * ''Curd''. | ||
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* ''Mead''. | * ''Mead''. | ||
* ''Rum'', from treacle. | * ''Rum'', from treacle. | ||
* ''Wine'', called ''mas'' in Kashmiri language. Kashmir was the only part of India where wine was made from the juice of the grape, a fact to be attributed rather to its acescent quality, than to any scarcity of fruit. A wine culture inflected by Hellenism thrived in Kashmir in the early centuries AD. At the beaded ring of a statue of goddess Lakshmi in a distinctively Gandharan style discovered by Frenchman Albert Foucher near the village of Brar in Bandipora in 1896, one can see clusters and foliage of vines.In the ''Mulasarvastivada vinaya'', a Buddhist text from the first half of the 2nd century AD, some monks travel in the Northwest and a ''yakṣa'' presents them with some grapes, which are said to be from Kashmir and apparently a great novelty. The Buddha explains that they can be eaten after purifying them with a burning ember, and that people can also make juice/syrup from them. For Abhinavagupta, alcohol which came from grape was splendour to a supreme degree. He praised the wine of his native Kashmir as ''mahabhairava'' (the mercurial essence). Jayaratha cautions against mixing it with any other ingredient, for the reason that its effectiveness would be quite limited. [[Lalitaditya Muktapida|Lalitaditya]] was so intoxicated with wine he told his ministers that if they wished to increase the beauty of his city, they should burn ''Pravarapura'', the city built by king Sri Pravarasena of the [[Alchon Huns]] and his orders could not be disobeyed.There are many references which show that making and drinking wine was not prohibited during the early Sultanate period even though it was strongly disapproved of by the orthodox section of the society. It was a common sight to see laymen and Brahman priests alike in a state of drunkenness during Hindu festivals. Despite the Islamic ban on alcohol, the Muslims, who participated in these festivals, also freely partook of wine. Zainul Abidin took it in moderation, but Haider Shah was a confirmed drunkard. | * ''Wine'', called ''mas'' in Kashmiri language. Kashmir was the only part of India where wine was made from the juice of the grape, a fact to be attributed rather to its acescent quality, than to any scarcity of fruit. A wine culture inflected by Hellenism thrived in Kashmir in the early centuries AD. At the beaded ring of a statue of goddess Lakshmi in a distinctively Gandharan style discovered by Frenchman Albert Foucher near the village of Brar in Bandipora in 1896, one can see clusters and foliage of vines.In the ''Mulasarvastivada vinaya'', a Buddhist text from the first half of the 2nd century AD, some monks travel in the Northwest and a ''yakṣa'' presents them with some grapes, which are said to be from Kashmir and apparently a great novelty. The Buddha explains that they can be eaten after purifying them with a burning ember, and that people can also make juice/syrup from them. For Abhinavagupta, alcohol which came from grape was splendour to a supreme degree. He praised the wine of his native Kashmir as ''mahabhairava'' (the mercurial essence). Jayaratha cautions against mixing it with any other ingredient, for the reason that its effectiveness would be quite limited. [[Lalitaditya Muktapida|Lalitaditya]] was so intoxicated with wine he told his ministers that if they wished to increase the beauty of his city, they should burn ''Pravarapura'', the city built by king Sri Pravarasena of the [[Alchon Huns]] and his orders could not be disobeyed.There are many references which show that making and drinking wine was not prohibited during the early Sultanate period even though it was strongly disapproved of by the orthodox section of the society. It was a common sight to see laymen and Brahman priests alike in a state of drunkenness during Hindu festivals. Despite the Islamic ban on alcohol, the Muslims, who participated in these festivals, also freely partook of wine. Zainul Abidin took it in moderation, but Haider Shah was a confirmed drunkard. [[Sikandar Butshikan]], or the ''destroyer of idols'' (c.1416) prohibited vending wine in Kashmir. The indigenous vines were generally planted at the foot of poplar and ran up to the height of fifty or sixty feet, bearing an abundance of fruit. After harvesting grapes in October, they were kept in shallow earthen vessels till spring, then they were applied to the fabrication of wine, vinegar and brandy. In 1815, the early wine writer André Jullien compared Kashmiri wine to madeira. Maharaja Ranbir Singh introduced vines from Bordeaux in France and Marion Doughty, a woman who visited Kashmir in 1900 wrote that the Medoc and B''arsac'' were both strengthening and pleasant to taste''.'' ''Anguri'' and ''qandi'' were the cherished drinks of singers. | ||
* ''Maireya Wine'', a spicy wine perfumed by camphor, and made out of fruits and flowers with a natural sugar base. | * ''Maireya Wine'', a spicy wine perfumed by camphor, and made out of fruits and flowers with a natural sugar base. | ||
* ''Asava Wine'', decocted extracts or cold infusion extracts of different herbs fermented with flowers of ''dhataki'' (''woodfordia fruticosa''). | * ''Asava Wine'', decocted extracts or cold infusion extracts of different herbs fermented with flowers of ''dhataki'' (''woodfordia fruticosa''). | ||
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* ''Vinegar'', Kashmiris made various pickles with it, the best of which was garlic, according to Jehangir. | * ''Vinegar'', Kashmiris made various pickles with it, the best of which was garlic, according to Jehangir. | ||
* ''Flour cakes'', fine flour could become expensive. | * ''Flour cakes'', fine flour could become expensive. | ||
* ''Spirit from Grapes'', | * ''Spirit from Grapes'', liquor (''mrdvika'') was drunk with incantation and blessing. | ||
* ''Spirit from Datura (Thorn-Apple).'' | * ''Spirit from Datura (Thorn-Apple).'' | ||
* ''Sesame'' Oil was extracted from it | * ''Sesame'' Oil was extracted from it | ||
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Beef is consumed in towns and villages of Kashmir more so for its affordability. In some villages, beef-eaters are huddled separately from those supposed to be served mutton during ''wazwan'' feasts. There is a class divide between people who eat ''kat maaz'' ("small meat", mutton) considered elite and more sophisticated, and those who eat ''bad maaz'' ("big meat", beef), considered lower-class. The biggest rabbit breeding farm in North India sprawls on six hectares of land in Wussan village of Baramulla district of Kashmir. The consumption of rabbit meat as a substitute for sheep and goat meat among the general masses is becoming popular. People with cardiac problems eat rabbits as the meat is considered lean and white with high nutritious value. | Beef is consumed in towns and villages of Kashmir more so for its affordability. In some villages, beef-eaters are huddled separately from those supposed to be served mutton during ''wazwan'' feasts. There is a class divide between people who eat ''kat maaz'' ("small meat", mutton) considered elite and more sophisticated, and those who eat ''bad maaz'' ("big meat", beef), considered lower-class. The biggest rabbit breeding farm in North India sprawls on six hectares of land in Wussan village of Baramulla district of Kashmir. The consumption of rabbit meat as a substitute for sheep and goat meat among the general masses is becoming popular. People with cardiac problems eat rabbits as the meat is considered lean and white with high nutritious value. | ||
The local geese of Kashmir (''Kashmir Aenz'') is the first and only recognised domestic geese breed in India. Geese rearing in the Valley dates back to ancient time as has been mentioned by Sir Walter R. Lawrence in his book 'The Valley of Kashmir'. In Srinagar, geese are mainly sold in Batmaloo and Lal Chowk, by vendors, who purchase geese from rearers in villages and sell them live or slaughtered in the city. | The local geese of Kashmir (''Kashmir Aenz'') is the first and only recognised domestic geese breed in India. Geese rearing in the Valley dates back to ancient time as has been mentioned by Sir Walter R. Lawrence in his book 'The Valley of Kashmir'. In Srinagar, geese are mainly sold in Batmaloo and Lal Chowk, by vendors, who purchase geese from rearers in villages and sell them live or slaughtered in the city. In affluent families, geese pickles would also be made and kept aside for winter use. | ||
===Fish=== | ===Fish=== | ||
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===Cereals=== | ===Cereals=== | ||
People in Kashmir eat different varieties of rice including the nutty and fragrant ''Mushk Budji'', grown in the higher reaches of the Kashmir valley. In February 2022, ''Mushk Budji'' rice got the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This cooked rice is unique and possesses a harmonious blend of taste, aroma and rich organoleptic properties. | People in Kashmir eat different varieties of rice including the nutty and fragrant ''Mushk Budji'', grown in the higher reaches of the Kashmir valley. In February 2022, ''Mushk Budji'' rice got the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This cooked rice is unique and possesses a harmonious blend of taste, aroma and rich organoleptic properties. Kashmiri red rice, locally called ''Zaag Batt'', is grown in a small village called Tangdhar on the border with Pakistan. The small unpolished grains are sought for their superior texture and taste. In 2009, farmers in the region harvested the legendary Basmati rice for the first time.[[File:Kohlraabi and Kashmiri saag.jpg|thumb|Monje Haakh ([[kohlrabi]]).]] [[File:Kashmiri Garlic.jpg|thumb|Kashmiri garlic]] | ||
[[File:Collard Plants.jpg|thumb|''Koshur haakh'', local collard greens.]] | [[File:Collard Plants.jpg|thumb|''Koshur haakh'', local collard greens.]] | ||
===Vegetables=== | ===Vegetables=== | ||
[[File:Vegetable seller on Dal Lake..JPG|thumb|Floating vegetable market on Dal Lake]] | [[File:Vegetable seller on Dal Lake..JPG|thumb|Floating vegetable market on Dal Lake]] | ||
The most important and frequently used Kashmiri vegetables are: ''haakh'' (collard greens or kale), ''monj Haak'' ( [[kohlrabi]]), ''tsochael''(mallow), ''bamchoont'' (quince), ''kral mound'' (shepherds purse), ''saze posh'' (holly hock), ''nadur'' (lotus stem), ''praan'' (shallots), ''aubuj'' (sorrel), ''mawal'' (cockscomb), ''wushkofur'' (camphor), ''tila gogul'' (mustard) and ''gor'' (water-chestnut). The floating vegetable garden on the Dal Lake is the second largest wholesale market in the world. Men, young and old, on their wooden boats, argue about the price of plump pumpkins and gourds as they share cigarettes or hookahs. The water of Kashmir is sweeter, and that affects the taste and flavour of vegetables. The items for sale include tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, water chestnuts, leafy vegetables, and the famous ''nadur''. A porous and fibrous lake vegetable, ''nadur'' has grown to become an irreplaceable ingredient in a traditional Kashmiri kitchen. Local accounts date its discovery to the 15th-century sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, who was introduced to the chewy delicacy while on a shikara ride on the Gil Sar lake located in the exteriors of Srinagar. | The most important and frequently used Kashmiri vegetables are: ''haakh'' (collard greens or kale), ''monj Haak'' ( [[kohlrabi]]), ''tsochael''(mallow), ''bamchoont'' (quince), ''kral mound'' (shepherds purse), ''saze posh'' (holly hock), ''nadur'' (lotus stem), ''praan'' (shallots), ''aubuj'' (sorrel), ''mawal'' (cockscomb), ''wushkofur'' (camphor), ''tila gogul'' (mustard) and ''gor'' (water-chestnut). The floating vegetable garden on the Dal Lake is the second largest wholesale market in the world. Men, young and old, on their wooden boats, argue about the price of plump pumpkins and gourds as they share cigarettes or hookahs. The water of Kashmir is sweeter, and that affects the taste and flavour of vegetables. The items for sale include tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, turnips, water chestnuts, leafy vegetables, and the famous ''nadur''. A porous and fibrous lake vegetable, ''nadur'' has grown to become an irreplaceable ingredient in a traditional Kashmiri kitchen. Local accounts date its discovery to the 15th-century sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, who was introduced to the chewy delicacy while on a shikara ride on the Gil Sar lake located in the exteriors of Srinagar. Also, according to a popular legend, the yarn threads that Lalla Ded (1320–1392), the Kashmiri mystic saint wove were thrown into the Dal Lake when her tyrant mother-in-law ridiculed and taunted her for yarning it too thin. These got changed into the fibres of ''nadur'' for eternity. | ||
Sun-dried vegetables, locally known as ''hokh syun'', are consumed as fresh produce dwindles. During summer, vegetables are peeled, chopped, salted and sun-dried to preserve them for winter. | Sun-dried vegetables, locally known as ''hokh syun'', are consumed as fresh produce dwindles. During summer, vegetables are peeled, chopped, salted and sun-dried to preserve them for winter. The various varieties of ''hokh syun'' include dried tomatoes (''ruwangun haech''), dried fenugreek leaves (''meeth''), dried lotus stem (''nadir haech''), dried Iberian knapweed (''kretch''), dried shallot leaves (''praan''), dried mint (''pudna''), dried bottle gourd (''al haech''), dried turnip slices (''gogji haech''), dried quince (''bamchount haech''), dried collard greens (''hoech haak'') and dried spinach (''hoech palak''). In the Charar Sharief area of central Kashmir, dried pears, locally known as ''tang haech'' are considered a delicacy. | ||
Shallots, known as ''praan'', stand out, lending its unique flavour to a multitude of Kashmiri dishes, from soups and stews, to curries and kebabs. Many of Mughal Emperor Akbar's feasts in the 16th century featured shallots. Buthoo village has earned renown for producing prized organic shallots. [[Snow Mountain garlic]], also known as Kashmiri garlic, is a rare single-clove variety of ''Allium sativum''. The clove beneath is bright white to creamy-white color and offers a strong, pungent garlic flavour without the acidity present in other varieties. | Shallots, known as ''praan'', stand out, lending its unique flavour to a multitude of Kashmiri dishes, from soups and stews, to curries and kebabs. Many of Mughal Emperor Akbar's feasts in the 16th century featured shallots. Buthoo village has earned renown for producing prized organic shallots. [[Snow Mountain garlic]], also known as Kashmiri garlic, is a rare single-clove variety of ''Allium sativum''. The clove beneath is bright white to creamy-white color and offers a strong, pungent garlic flavour without the acidity present in other varieties. | ||
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===Fruits=== | ===Fruits=== | ||
Kashmiri apple is famous for its juiciness and distinct flavour as well. In 2019 alone, Kashmir produced over 1.9 million metric tonnes of apples, the highest among Indian states. Further, Kashmir accounts for 90% of India's walnut production. Kashmiri walnuts are a great source of nutrients and widely in demand across the globe. | Kashmiri apple is famous for its juiciness and distinct flavour as well. In 2019 alone, Kashmir produced over 1.9 million metric tonnes of apples, the highest among Indian states. Further, Kashmir accounts for 90% of India's walnut production. Kashmiri walnuts are a great source of nutrients and widely in demand across the globe. Giant walnut trees can scale 75 feet in Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir. Many years ago, walnut oil used to be a medium of cooking and imparted a sweeter and nuttier flavour to dishes. | ||
[[File:Packing Strawberries (14574895731).jpg|thumb|The local climate with bright sunshine and moderate rainfall, is ideally suited for strawberry cultivation.]] | [[File:Packing Strawberries (14574895731).jpg|thumb|The local climate with bright sunshine and moderate rainfall, is ideally suited for strawberry cultivation.]] | ||
Muhammad Quli Afshar brought cherries from Kabul and planted them during Akbar's time. Mishri variety of cherry is famous in Kashmir and sweeter than other varieties. They are loaded with minerals, vitamins and plant compounds. The exotic berries from Kashmir are sweet and sour mulberry (''tuell'' and ''shah-tuell''), raspberry (''chhanchh''), barberry (''kaawducchh'') and red berry (''haapat maewaa''). Gassu area on the Srinagar outskirts is known for strawberry (''istaber'') harvesting. | Muhammad Quli Afshar brought cherries from Kabul and planted them during Akbar's time. Mishri variety of cherry is famous in Kashmir and sweeter than other varieties. They are loaded with minerals, vitamins and plant compounds. The exotic berries from Kashmir are sweet and sour mulberry (''tuell'' and ''shah-tuell''), raspberry (''chhanchh''), barberry (''kaawducchh'') and red berry (''haapat maewaa''). Gassu area on the Srinagar outskirts is known for strawberry (''istaber'') harvesting. | ||
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* silver leaf (''varak'') — tissue-thin edible silver sheets used for garnishing pulao and meat dishes. | * silver leaf (''varak'') — tissue-thin edible silver sheets used for garnishing pulao and meat dishes. | ||
Rock salt consumption is quite old in Kashmir. It was and is still being imported from Khewrah area of Pakistani Punjab, where it was first discovered by the troops of Alexander the Great in 326 B.C. Pre-independence, rock salt was imported via Mughal Road, which, before the advent of Mughals, was called ''Namak'' Route. After partition, its supply was barred. | Rock salt consumption is quite old in Kashmir. It was and is still being imported from Khewrah area of Pakistani Punjab, where it was first discovered by the troops of Alexander the Great in 326 B.C. Pre-independence, rock salt was imported via Mughal Road, which, before the advent of Mughals, was called ''Namak'' Route. After partition, its supply was barred. Because of its benefits, it is now being consumed by almost one-fourth of the population. | ||
==Specialties by season== | ==Specialties by season== | ||
[[File:Cherry blossoms in Doodhpathri southwest Jammu Kashmir India.jpg|thumb|A fruit tree in Spring.]] | [[File:Cherry blossoms in Doodhpathri southwest Jammu Kashmir India.jpg|thumb|A fruit tree in Spring.]] | ||
Spring is often considered a season of rejuvenation after a long and harsh winter. Picnics, of which the Kashmiris are very fond, are planned around the theme of food. The countryside is awash with white and pink flowers of almond (''badaam''), peach (''tsunun'') and cherry (''gilaas'') blossoms. The mustard fields join the show with their bright-yellow blooms. The pear (''tang'') blossoms can be identified by their thick cluster of flowers. | Spring is often considered a season of rejuvenation after a long and harsh winter. Picnics, of which the Kashmiris are very fond, are planned around the theme of food. The countryside is awash with white and pink flowers of almond (''badaam''), peach (''tsunun'') and cherry (''gilaas'') blossoms. The mustard fields join the show with their bright-yellow blooms. The pear (''tang'') blossoms can be identified by their thick cluster of flowers. Apricot (''Tser'') blossoms are white in colour, often tinged with a pink or reddish hue. They grow from late spring through early summer. Beans are a spring vegetable. Cherries are a fruit of late spring and summer.Coriander (''danival'') is a cool herb whose season predominates between spring and summer in cooler areas. Garlic (''rohan'') is found mainly in spring and through fall season. Melons (''kharbooz'') are a fruit grown in spring and summer. Tender spring-time ''haakh'' (collard greens) are called ''kaanul''.[[File:Taobat, Neelum valley, Kashmir.jpg|thumb|Trout fishing, such as here in the river Taobat in Kashmir, is open during the summer months.]]The season of harvesting lotus stem (''nadur'') starts in September. The ''samovar'' bubbles in a corner, spreading the sweet fragrance of saffron and cardamom in the air. Cookie-shaped ''kandi kulchas'' made of flour, butter, sugar and sprinkled with poppy seeds are passed around to be dipped into the tea and relished. Men fish under the shade of the chinar tree in Dalgate area. Dandelion leaves, also known as ''haand'' in Kashmir, are foraged on foot. Going to the countryside, one can see paddy being cut with sickles and then stacked in huge piles to dry. Chestnuts are roasted in the dying embers. Bulbous garlic and red potatoes jostle for space. Saffron fields in full bloom greet you in Pampore, a part of Pulwama district. Going towards the hilly areas one can see the maize and walnut trees with their fruit getting ready to be harvested. Going towards the apple producing areas of Sopore in North Kashmir or Shopian in South Kashmir, one can see cartons of apple being transported to various parts of the country. | ||
During the long winters the days are short, sunlight and electricity in short supply, so there is not much that can liven up existence except interesting food, so it constitutes a major interest of the Kashmiris' lives. | During the long winters the days are short, sunlight and electricity in short supply, so there is not much that can liven up existence except interesting food, so it constitutes a major interest of the Kashmiris' lives. On window sills and terraces, one can spot small piles of aubergines, cherry tomatoes, gourds and turnips being sun-dried. There is ample time and the ''daan'' (Kashmiri traditional stove) with its twin stoves (''Chaer'' in Kashmiri) ignited by fire wood placed in one inlet) is always ready to oblige long hours of cooking despite the shortages of electricity. When all village roads remained blocked due to heavy snowfall and villagers have to use oil lamps or kerosene lanterns, the entire family is called to the kitchen where flavour of the overnight ''shab deg'' fills the entire space. Kohlrabi (''monje'') is cold tolerant, and continues to grow on the fields in winter, so much that a little frost even helps it. | ||
==List of dishes== | ==List of dishes== | ||
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===''Tschaman''=== | ===''Tschaman''=== | ||
[[Paneer]] is called ''tschaman'' in Kashmiri. The spicing falls into the sweet-savoury spectrum which means using a lot of cinnamon, mace and clove alongside earthier spices like cumin seed and ground coriander. The scarcity of fresh ginger in mountain geography also means that ground ginger is a spice staple. | [[Paneer]] is called ''tschaman'' in Kashmiri. The spicing falls into the sweet-savoury spectrum which means using a lot of cinnamon, mace and clove alongside earthier spices like cumin seed and ground coriander. The scarcity of fresh ginger in mountain geography also means that ground ginger is a spice staple. Paneer recipes are: | ||
* ''Tschaman Kanti'', cubes of cottage cheese that are fried, tossed in select spices and stir fried with onions and tomatoes. | * ''Tschaman Kanti'', cubes of cottage cheese that are fried, tossed in select spices and stir fried with onions and tomatoes. | ||
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* ''Gaad Ta Obuj'', wild ''obuj''(rumex obtusifolius) with fish. | * ''Gaad Ta Obuj'', wild ''obuj''(rumex obtusifolius) with fish. | ||
* ''Hogada Ta Haakh/Bum'', dried fish (''bolinao'' and others) with 'karam' saag or dried water-lily stems. | * ''Hogada Ta Haakh/Bum'', dried fish (''bolinao'' and others) with 'karam' saag or dried water-lily stems. | ||
* ''Kanz Ta Gaad/Guran'', fish or small fish or very small dried fish, cooked with slightly fermented but non-alcoholic drink ''sadre kaenz''. | * ''Kanz Ta Gaad/Guran'', fish or small fish or very small dried fish, cooked with slightly fermented but non-alcoholic drink ''sadre kaenz''. In the old days, when one family in a neighbourhood would make ''kaenz'' it was understood it belonged equally to the rest to be used whenever required. The heat of the generously used spices like chili and ginger powder in this popular dish is supposed to be tempered by the cooling effect of this rice beer-like brew. | ||
* ''Fari/Phari'', smoked fish. A winter delicacy prepared in a particular method by only a few remaining households in Srinagar's Tiploo Mohalla. The fish used is a variety of trout belonging to the genus ''Schizothorax''. | * ''Fari/Phari'', smoked fish. A winter delicacy prepared in a particular method by only a few remaining households in Srinagar's Tiploo Mohalla. The fish used is a variety of trout belonging to the genus ''Schizothorax''. | ||
* ''Phari Ta Haakh'', smoked fish with collard greens. The skin of the smoked fish is removed and it is fried until it turns reddish-brown. The fish is added to collard greens and cooked until all the water is absorbed and oil floats on top. | * ''Phari Ta Haakh'', smoked fish with collard greens. The skin of the smoked fish is removed and it is fried until it turns reddish-brown. The fish is added to collard greens and cooked until all the water is absorbed and oil floats on top. Best had with steamed rice, and best not to reheat the dish. | ||
===Salads=== | ===Salads=== | ||
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Various varieties of Kashmiri pickles are: | Various varieties of Kashmiri pickles are: | ||
* ''Aanchar'', pickles (chicken, mutton, fish, greylag goose, | * ''Aanchar'', pickles (chicken, mutton, fish, greylag goose, mango, cherry, bitter gourd, amla, apple, apricot, plum, garlic, turnip, chillies, knol-khols, radishes, carrots, onions, cauliflowers, brinjals, lotus roots, green almonds, hard pears, grapes). | ||
===Street food=== | ===Street food=== | ||
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* ''Kruhun Masale/Dub Maha'', a poor man's shawarma, a thin ''lavas'' is made of refined flour in which boiled chickpeas are rolled and then dipped in tomato chutney. | * ''Kruhun Masale/Dub Maha'', a poor man's shawarma, a thin ''lavas'' is made of refined flour in which boiled chickpeas are rolled and then dipped in tomato chutney. | ||
* ''Razmah Masale'', ''rajma'' with corn. | * ''Razmah Masale'', ''rajma'' with corn. | ||
* ''Masale Tschot'', chickpea masala spread over a ''lavas'' (kashmiri naan). The preparation for making ''masaal'' begins during the night or early hours of the morning. Then different kinds of chutneys or sauces are prepared. | * ''Masale Tschot'', chickpea masala spread over a ''lavas'' (kashmiri naan). The preparation for making ''masaal'' begins during the night or early hours of the morning. Then different kinds of chutneys or sauces are prepared. Radish chutney mixed with fresh curd, green chilli, coriander, pepper and salt is served with it and lastly the soft bread is used for wrapping. | ||
* ''Egg Roll'' | * ''Egg Roll'' | ||
* ''Dastar Katlam'', famous ''halwai'' food. | * ''Dastar Katlam'', famous ''halwai'' food. | ||
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===Desserts=== | ===Desserts=== | ||
Kashmiris are fond of sugar. | Kashmiris are fond of sugar. Common sweetmeats are: | ||
* ''Halwa'', sweetmeat originally made of honey, camel's milk, cashew nuts, and many other ingredients and brought from the Persian Gulf, ''via'' Bombay, in saucers to United India in the nineteenth century. ''Halwa'' tradition reached Kashmir towards the end of the nineteenth century. | * ''Halwa'', sweetmeat originally made of honey, camel's milk, cashew nuts, and many other ingredients and brought from the Persian Gulf, ''via'' Bombay, in saucers to United India in the nineteenth century. ''Halwa'' tradition reached Kashmir towards the end of the nineteenth century. | ||
* ''Chounth Halwa''. | * ''Chounth Halwa''. | ||
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===English pastry=== | ===English pastry=== | ||
Before 1918, Abdul Ahad Bhat, of Ahdoos, was under the tutelage of English bakers at Nedou's, a hotel in Srinagar owned by Austro-Swiss Michael Nedou. He quickly picked up the art of baking, and started a small bakery, the first by a Kashmiri at that time. Ahdoos's forte was English goodies, and as India inched towards freedom from British Rule he added Kashmiri items to the menu. | Before 1918, Abdul Ahad Bhat, of Ahdoos, was under the tutelage of English bakers at Nedou's, a hotel in Srinagar owned by Austro-Swiss Michael Nedou. He quickly picked up the art of baking, and started a small bakery, the first by a Kashmiri at that time. Ahdoos's forte was English goodies, and as India inched towards freedom from British Rule he added Kashmiri items to the menu. Mughal Darbar was established on Residency Road in 1984 and on the road parallel is Jee Enn, founded by Ghulam Nabi Sofi in 1972. Many of the owners and staff of these new bakeries have trained in Ahdoos. The variety of pastries include: | ||
* ''Chicken or Mutton Patty'', meat seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic, encased in layered puff pastry. | * ''Chicken or Mutton Patty'', meat seasoned with salt, pepper and garlic, encased in layered puff pastry. | ||
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* ''Sheermal'', a saffron flavoured traditional flatbread said to have originated in Iran. It is offered in both sweet and flavourful versions. The ''sheermal'' bread is usually dented with multiple patterns bordering on corresponding lines. | * ''Sheermal'', a saffron flavoured traditional flatbread said to have originated in Iran. It is offered in both sweet and flavourful versions. The ''sheermal'' bread is usually dented with multiple patterns bordering on corresponding lines. | ||
* ''Baqerkhayn'' (puff pastry), Kashmiri [[Bakarkhani|bakerkhani]] has a special place in Kashmiri cuisine. It is similar to a round naan in appearance, but crisp and layered, and sprinkled with sesame seeds. It is typically consumed hot during breakfast. | * ''Baqerkhayn'' (puff pastry), Kashmiri [[Bakarkhani|bakerkhani]] has a special place in Kashmiri cuisine. It is similar to a round naan in appearance, but crisp and layered, and sprinkled with sesame seeds. It is typically consumed hot during breakfast. | ||
* ''Lavasa'', thin unleavened flat bread, white in colour, made of ''maida'' (finely-milled wheat flour). It is a paper-thin blistered naan. | * ''Lavasa'', thin unleavened flat bread, white in colour, made of ''maida'' (finely-milled wheat flour). It is a paper-thin blistered naan. Some lavasas are soft while others are crispy. | ||
* ''Girda'', made with dough that has been fermented overnight, rolls of dough are flattened out by hand and finger impressions are pressed into it to give you lines that run down its length. ''Girda'' and ''lavas'' are served with butter. | * ''Girda'', made with dough that has been fermented overnight, rolls of dough are flattened out by hand and finger impressions are pressed into it to give you lines that run down its length. ''Girda'' and ''lavas'' are served with butter. | ||
* ''Kulcha'', baked exclusively with ghee, this small, hard, dry, crumbly bread, is usually round in shape. It is decorated by placing a peanut in the centre of the upper face. | * ''Kulcha'', baked exclusively with ghee, this small, hard, dry, crumbly bread, is usually round in shape. It is decorated by placing a peanut in the centre of the upper face. | ||
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===Eid-ul-Fitr=== | ===Eid-ul-Fitr=== | ||
While on fast, Muslims avoid consuming food during the day, while at dusk, they indulge in extra-special, bountiful meals prepared during the day. The menu for Ramadan month includes ''khajur ka laddoo'' (date balls), ''babribyol'' (basil seeds), ''kulfi'', ''phirin'', ''seemni'', fruit chaat, fruit custard, ''kateer'' (a drink loaded with health benefits) and ''noon chai''. | While on fast, Muslims avoid consuming food during the day, while at dusk, they indulge in extra-special, bountiful meals prepared during the day. The menu for Ramadan month includes ''khajur ka laddoo'' (date balls), ''babribyol'' (basil seeds), ''kulfi'', ''phirin'', ''seemni'', fruit chaat, fruit custard, ''kateer'' (a drink loaded with health benefits) and ''noon chai''. The smell of slow-cooked mutton hovers, fragrant and sultry in the air, and despite the familiar air of unpredictability in Srinagar, spirits are high and streets are filled with happy greetings of ''Eid Mubarak''. | ||
Eid-ul-Fitr marks the end of 30 days of Ramadan. After attending Eid prayers at a mosque or [[Eidgah]], families return home to welcome guests. A common tradition on Eid morning is serving [[Kahwah|Kehwa]] (saffron tea) and chai (milk tea), accompanied by an assortment of bakery items such as cakes, cookies, ghee tchot (a tandoor-baked flatbread), pastries, and savoury snacks like chicken and mutton patties. | Eid-ul-Fitr marks the end of 30 days of Ramadan. After attending Eid prayers at a mosque or [[Eidgah]], families return home to welcome guests. A common tradition on Eid morning is serving [[Kahwah|Kehwa]] (saffron tea) and chai (milk tea), accompanied by an assortment of bakery items such as cakes, cookies, ghee tchot (a tandoor-baked flatbread), pastries, and savoury snacks like chicken and mutton patties. | ||
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==Diaspora and fusion cuisines== | ==Diaspora and fusion cuisines== | ||
Tibetan exiles in Kashmir, including members of Tibet's small Muslim population live in Srinagar, mainly in a small area near the 18th-century Hari Parbat fort. Popular ''momo'' (beef dumplings) shops and Tibetan restaurants are run by their children. | Tibetan exiles in Kashmir, including members of Tibet's small Muslim population live in Srinagar, mainly in a small area near the 18th-century Hari Parbat fort. Popular ''momo'' (beef dumplings) shops and Tibetan restaurants are run by their children. Tibetan options include Cantonese chicken and ''kumloo'' wonton, fried pasta stuffed with minced mushrooms. | ||
Kashmiri Sikh cuisine has a bit of influence from Punjab with onions and tomatoes, but the flavouring goes the Kashmiri way with elements such as ''badyaan'' (''saunf''). A large number of Indian tourists depend entirely on ''Vaishno Dhabas'', the Valley's generic non-A/C restaurants that serve all-vegetarian North Indian fare. | Kashmiri Sikh cuisine has a bit of influence from Punjab with onions and tomatoes, but the flavouring goes the Kashmiri way with elements such as ''badyaan'' (''saunf''). A large number of Indian tourists depend entirely on ''Vaishno Dhabas'', the Valley's generic non-A/C restaurants that serve all-vegetarian North Indian fare. | ||
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===Emulsification=== | ===Emulsification=== | ||
The yoghurt must be fatty, thick. | The yoghurt must be fatty, thick. Dried mint, just a pinch, is added right at the end to freshen the dish. | ||
===Food colouring=== | ===Food colouring=== | ||
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Much like Kashmir, its people, and its narrative traditions, Kashmiri cuisine too is an amalgam of influences from Central Asia, Persia, China, and the Indian subcontinent. Food recipes passed down from one culture to another are: | Much like Kashmir, its people, and its narrative traditions, Kashmiri cuisine too is an amalgam of influences from Central Asia, Persia, China, and the Indian subcontinent. Food recipes passed down from one culture to another are: | ||
* ''Aab Gosh'' (Kashmiri). ''Abgoosht'' or ''Abgusht'' is more so a one-pot Persian comfort food that is a rustic dish with wholesome ingredients. It has been enjoyed by Persians for centuries. | * ''Aab Gosh'' (Kashmiri). ''Abgoosht'' or ''Abgusht'' is more so a one-pot Persian comfort food that is a rustic dish with wholesome ingredients. It has been enjoyed by Persians for centuries. There is a similar dish in Armenia, called Abgoosht stew, using beef instead of lamb. | ||
* ''Batte'' (Kashmiri). Short-grain, sticky rice is called ''bata'' in Afghanistan. | * ''Batte'' (Kashmiri). Short-grain, sticky rice is called ''bata'' in Afghanistan. | ||
* ''Harise'' (Kashmiri). ''Al Harees'' is a traditional Emirati dish consisting of wheat, meat(chicken) and salt. A simple, traditional Saudi dish using crushed wheat is called ''jareesh''. ''Harissa'', also known as ''herisseh'', ''harisa'' or ''keshkeg'' in Armenia is a wheat berry and meat porridge. The wheat, usually known as ''korkot'', is shelled making them quicker to cook. ''Boko Boko Harees'' in Burundian cuisine is a delicacy prepared with chicken, turmeric and bulgur wheat. ''Amritsari Hareesa'' is a famous dish of the winter season in Lahore, Pakistan and made with wheat and meat. It is seasoned with desi ghee and served with hot naan. | * ''Harise'' (Kashmiri). ''Al Harees'' is a traditional Emirati dish consisting of wheat, meat(chicken) and salt. A simple, traditional Saudi dish using crushed wheat is called ''jareesh''. ''Harissa'', also known as ''herisseh'', ''harisa'' or ''keshkeg'' in Armenia is a wheat berry and meat porridge. The wheat, usually known as ''korkot'', is shelled making them quicker to cook. ''Boko Boko Harees'' in Burundian cuisine is a delicacy prepared with chicken, turmeric and bulgur wheat. ''Amritsari Hareesa'' is a famous dish of the winter season in Lahore, Pakistan and made with wheat and meat. It is seasoned with desi ghee and served with hot naan. | ||
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* ''Nadur'' (Kashmiri). In Afghan cuisine, ''Qormah e Nadroo'' is an onion-and-tomato-based stew using lamb meat or veal, yogurt, lotus roots and coriander. | * ''Nadur'' (Kashmiri). In Afghan cuisine, ''Qormah e Nadroo'' is an onion-and-tomato-based stew using lamb meat or veal, yogurt, lotus roots and coriander. | ||
* ''Polav'' (Kashmiri). It looks as if ''pilaf'' was invented in Iran some time after the 10th century.The Turks call plain rice ''sade pilav''. Turkey sees ''pilav'' primarily as a side dish rather than a main course. Iran is famous for its ''polos'' made with aromatic ''domsiyah'' rice. The most characteristic ones are based on fruits such as cherries, quinces, or apricots. In Central Asia, the simplest recipe uses onions, meat and carrots. The extravagant court traditions of the Moghul school of cookery makes India home to some very elaborate ''pulaos''. Laborers from western India brought pilaf to the Caribbean, where it is garnished with butter, almonds and pimiento-stuffed green olives. | * ''Polav'' (Kashmiri). It looks as if ''pilaf'' was invented in Iran some time after the 10th century.The Turks call plain rice ''sade pilav''. Turkey sees ''pilav'' primarily as a side dish rather than a main course. Iran is famous for its ''polos'' made with aromatic ''domsiyah'' rice. The most characteristic ones are based on fruits such as cherries, quinces, or apricots. In Central Asia, the simplest recipe uses onions, meat and carrots. The extravagant court traditions of the Moghul school of cookery makes India home to some very elaborate ''pulaos''. Laborers from western India brought pilaf to the Caribbean, where it is garnished with butter, almonds and pimiento-stuffed green olives. | ||
* ''Roth''(Kashmiri). The Afghan version of the universal West Asian and European sweet egg bread is called ''rot''. | * ''Roth''(Kashmiri). The Afghan version of the universal West Asian and European sweet egg bread is called ''rot''. In Afghanistan, it is traditionally served when a newborn child is forty days old. | ||
* ''Sheer Chai'' (Kashmiri). ''Qaimak'' or ''Sheer chai'' is often served at celebrations in Afghanistan to toast good health. | * ''Sheer Chai'' (Kashmiri). ''Qaimak'' or ''Sheer chai'' is often served at celebrations in Afghanistan to toast good health. | ||
* ''Yakhein'' (Kashmiri). ''Patates Yahni'' or Greek potato stew is a traditional Greek recipe which falls under the category of ''ladera'', meaning dishes prepared only with olive oil with no addition of other fat. Turkish ''Yahni'' is a beef stew that is great in cold weather. A 19th century cookbook by Mehmet Kamil listed a total of 14 classic ''yakhnis''. ''Yakhni nokhod'' is a traditional Shirazi dish that uses meat, peas, potatoes, onions, salt and turmeric. | * ''Yakhein'' (Kashmiri). ''Patates Yahni'' or Greek potato stew is a traditional Greek recipe which falls under the category of ''ladera'', meaning dishes prepared only with olive oil with no addition of other fat. Turkish ''Yahni'' is a beef stew that is great in cold weather. A 19th century cookbook by Mehmet Kamil listed a total of 14 classic ''yakhnis''. ''Yakhni nokhod'' is a traditional Shirazi dish that uses meat, peas, potatoes, onions, salt and turmeric. | ||
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== Etiquette of Kashmiri dining == | == Etiquette of Kashmiri dining == | ||
Kashmiris are gregarious and like to share. | Kashmiris are gregarious and like to share. Language and Food are the two vital parts of the region's identity. 'One who eats properly shall rule the country' it is said. An interesting wedding tradition from Kashmir involves newlyweds making ''roti'' together. While the bride flattens the dough and puts it on the griddle, the groom is responsible for flipping it and making sure it is cooked.Kashmiris are very particular about the taste of dishes. Food connoisseurs can easily taste a single morsel and name the ''waza'' (chef) who cooked it. They can smell an aubergine from four other kinds, and tell you which one is from Kashmir. When filmmaker Vivek Agnihotri wrote a presumptuous tweet proposing the idea of vegetarian wazwan, social media erupted in spontaneous protest. Also, Gordon Ramsay, multi-Michelin-starred chef and television personality, found himself at the receiving end of criticism for his ''Rogan Josh'' by Kashmiris who commented that the cut of the meat and the gravy were wrong. | ||
[[File:Kashmiri family food.jpg|thumb|A Kashmiri family.]] | [[File:Kashmiri family food.jpg|thumb|A Kashmiri family.]] | ||
In Kashmir, it is said that food should both taste and look good. | In Kashmir, it is said that food should both taste and look good. Its aroma must be appetising. Success of a meal lies in its appeal to the eyes, nose and then the tongue. Any event, from a minor one such as receiving a guest in one's home, to a major one such as a circumcision or a wedding, becomes a celebration of preparing, laying out, serving and consuming together the most delicious victuals. Delicacies are passed on to neighbours to be relished and there is no shame in asking for something when the nostrils are tickled and tempted by the mouth-watering smells from a neighbour's kitchen. | ||
Giant ''dastarkhaans'' (white sheets) are spread on the floor on which the meal is served. However humble or lofty the fare on it, the ''dastarkhaan'' has always been the center of warm hospitality and conviviality. In big Kashmiri dinners, a hundred to five hundred people are usually invited. Since insurgency and the resultant violence and bloodshed, food has come to hold even greater meaning as each meal signifies a celebration of life itself. It is worth mentioning that ''wazas'' (the descendants of Samarkandi cooks), whose shops are located in particular areas of the city of Srinagar, form a significant political group in Kashmir. | Giant ''dastarkhaans'' (white sheets) are spread on the floor on which the meal is served. However humble or lofty the fare on it, the ''dastarkhaan'' has always been the center of warm hospitality and conviviality. In big Kashmiri dinners, a hundred to five hundred people are usually invited. Since insurgency and the resultant violence and bloodshed, food has come to hold even greater meaning as each meal signifies a celebration of life itself. It is worth mentioning that ''wazas'' (the descendants of Samarkandi cooks), whose shops are located in particular areas of the city of Srinagar, form a significant political group in Kashmir. | ||
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Kashmiri language is rich in proverbs and idioms. Food-related idioms include: | Kashmiri language is rich in proverbs and idioms. Food-related idioms include: | ||
* ''Adyav kheyiv chinih adyav kheyiv taki'' — half the people ate from large dishes, and half from small dishes. A badly arranged dinner. | * ''Adyav kheyiv chinih adyav kheyiv taki'' — half the people ate from large dishes, and half from small dishes. A badly arranged dinner. | ||
* ''Akh chhiwyov masah byak hakah rasah'' — one man is intoxicated with the juice of the grape, another with juice of vegetables. Pride dwells in everyone, whether he be rich or poor. | * ''Akh chhiwyov masah byak hakah rasah'' — one man is intoxicated with the juice of the grape, another with juice of vegetables. Pride dwells in everyone, whether he be rich or poor. | ||
* ''Akh duda biyi maji kyut toak'' — an uninvited guest wants a (''toak'') plateful for his mother, in addition to himself. ''Toak'' was an earthen plate, in general use in Kashmir in the past. Beggars and some uninvited people pushed themselves in among the guests because of their poverty, or their desire for tasting the delicacies. It is applied where a person is not content with what is willingly offered to him, and demands more. | * ''Akh duda biyi maji kyut toak'' — an uninvited guest wants a (''toak'') plateful for his mother, in addition to himself. ''Toak'' was an earthen plate, in general use in Kashmir in the past. Beggars and some uninvited people pushed themselves in among the guests because of their poverty, or their desire for tasting the delicacies. It is applied where a person is not content with what is willingly offered to him, and demands more. | ||
