Anglo-Indian cuisine: Difference between revisions

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{{Short description |Cuisine originated in the British Raj}}

{{British cuisine}}

'''Anglo-Indian cuisine''' is the [[cuisine]] that developed during the [[British Raj]] in India. The cuisine introduced dishes such as [[Curry in the United Kingdom|curry]], [[chutney]], [[kedgeree]], [[mulligatawny]] and pish pash to English palates.

Anglo-Indian cuisine was documented in detail by the English colonel [[Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert]], writing as "Wyvern" in 1885 to advise the [[British Raj]]'s [[Sahib#Colonial and modern use |memsahibs]] what to instruct their Indian cooks to make. Many of its usages are described in the "wonderful" 1886 Anglo-Indian dictionary, ''[[Hobson-Jobson]]''. More recently, the cuisine has been analysed by Jennifer Brennan in 1990 and David Burton in 1993.

[[File:How Anglo-Indians made Curry.svg|thumb|center|upright=3|Anglo-Indian cooks created what they called [[curry]] by selecting elements of Indian dishes from all over [[British India]]. [[Lizzie Collingham]] describes their taste as "eclectic", "pan-Indian", "lacking sophistication", embodying a "passion for garnishes", and forming a "coherent repertoire"; but it was eaten only by the British. Among their creations were [[Curry powder]], [[Kedgeree]], [[Madras curry]], and [[Mulligatawny]] curry soup, accompanied by [[Bombay duck]], [[chutney]]s, [[Pickling|pickle]]s, and [[poppadom]]s.]]

During the [[British India|British rule in India]], cooks began adapting Indian dishes for British palates and creating Anglo-Indian cuisine, with dishes such as [[kedgeree]] (1790) and [[mulligatawny soup]] (1791). The first Indian restaurant in England, the [[Hindoostane Coffee House]], opened in 1809 in London; as described in [[The Epicure's Almanack]] in 1815, "All the dishes were dressed with curry powder, rice, Cayenne, and the best spices of Arabia. A room was set apart for smoking hookahs with oriental herbs". Indian food was cooked at home from a similar date as cookbooks of the time, including the 1758 edition of [[Hannah Glasse]]'s ''[[The Art of Cookery]]'', attest.

The [[British East India Company]] arrived in India in 1600, developing into a large and established organisation. By 1760, men were returning home from India with money and a taste for Indian food. In 1784, a listing in the [[Morning Herald]] and Daily Advertiser promoted ready-mix curry powder to be used in Indian-style dishes. While no dish called "curry" existed in India in the 18th and 19th centuries, Anglo-Indians likely coined the term, derived from the Tamil word "kari" meaning a spiced sauce poured over rice, to denote any Indian dish. Storytelling may have allowed family members at home to learn about Indian food.

[[File:Hannah Glasse To make a Currey the Indian Way 1758 edition.jpg|thumb|upright=1.8|[[Hannah Glasse]]'s receipt ''To make a Currey the Indian Way'', on page 101 of the 1758 edition of ''[[The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy]]'' ]]

Many cookbooks including Indian-style dishes were written and published by British women in the late 18th century, such as [[Hannah Glasse]]'s 1758 book ''[[The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy]]'', which included the recipe "To make a Currey the Indian Way".

As Indian cuisine grew in popularity in Britain, the desire for authentic Indian delicacies grew. In March 1811, the [[Hindoostane Coffee House]] opened in [[Portman Square]] offering Indian ambience and curries as well as [[hookah]] smoking rooms. The founder, Sake Dean Mohomed, stated that  the ingredients for the curries as well as the herbs for smoking were authentically Indian.

{{further |English cuisine#Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine |List of chutneys}}

Well-known Anglo-Indian dishes include chutneys, [[Salting (food)|salted]] [[beef tongue]], [[kedgeree]], ball curry, fish [[rissole]]s, and [[mulligatawny soup]]. [[Chutney]], one of the few Indian dishes that has had a lasting influence on [[English cuisine]] according to the [[The Oxford Companion to Food|Oxford Companion to Food]], is a cooked and sweetened condiment of fruit, nuts or vegetables. It borrows from a tradition of jam making where an equal amount of sour fruit and refined sugar reacts with the [[pectin]] in the fruit such as sour apples or rhubarb, the sour note being provided by vinegar. [[Major Grey's Chutney]] is typical.

Pish pash was defined by ''Hobson-Jobson'' as "a slop of rice-soup with small pieces of meat in it, much used in the Anglo-Indian nursery". The term was first recorded by [[Augustus Prinsep]] in the mid 19th century. The name comes from the Persian ''pash-pash'', from ''pashidan'', to break. A version of the dish is given in ''[[The Cookery Book of Lady Clark of Tillypronie]]'' of 1909.

== Restaurants ==

{{further|English cuisine#Indian and Anglo-Indian cuisine}}

Some early restaurants in England, such as the Hindoostane Coffee House on George Street, [[London]], which opened in 1810, served Anglo-Indian food. Many Indian restaurants, however, have reverted to the standard mix-and-match Indian dishes that are better known to the British public.

* [http://www.bl.uk/learning/histcitizen/foodstories/index.html "Food Stories"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210410231056/http://www.bl.uk/learning/histcitizen/foodstories/index.html |date=10 April 2021 }} — Explore a century of revolutionary change in UK food culture on the [[British Library]]'s Food Stories website

* {{cite web |url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/magazine/8370054.stm |title=How Britain got the hots for curry |work=[[BBC News Online|BBC News Magazine]] |date=26 November 2009 |access-date=15 August 2014 }}

* [https://www.holycowonline.com/ "Best Indian Restaurant in London"] — Have a look to the best Indian food restaurants in London to the [[History_of_Indian_cuisine]]'s Holy Cow website

[[Category:Anglo-Indian cuisine| ]]

[[Category:British fusion cuisine]]